Restaurant with a view -- Simon Pearce, Vermont

By GAIL LOWE

The Simon Pearce Restaurant — a place to relax, enjoy fine food and purchase exquisite glassware designed by none other than Simon Pearce himself — is only two hours from where my husband and I live in Massachusetts.

Located in Quechee, Vermont, it's a perfect destination for a day trip from the Boston area.

We invited another couple to join us for brunch at Simon Pearce on a recent Sunday morning, and on arrival found that there were plenty of empty tables. Our host, Bruce, led

us to a table for four that overlooks a waterfall that rushes out of the Ottauquechee River and spills past a rare, historical covered bridge. (Actually, Vermont has 114 of these covered bridges.)

Like Simon Pearce glassware, the falls sparkle in the sunlight. Even on a cloudy day, they can't help but draw the eye. To be seated right next to these gorgeous falls is a bonus.

The brunch menu is extensive and includes items like caramelized broccoli and poached egg; house made granola and a Vermont cheese plate that includes scones, macron almonds, honey and quince paste.

Entrees even more ambitious include creme brûlée french toast, ricotta and sea salt omelette, crispy chicken and a biscuit and Tamarack Farms lamb burger. For four people, our bill came to about $120, including beverages and tip.

Lisa, our server, was pleasant, friendly and patient while we pored over the menu. We finally settled on a special of the day — Tuscan kale, blood orange and olive salad, house made corned beef hash and the crispy chicken. The Vermont cheddar soup (cup size) also beckoned. To say it was delicious is an understatement. Creamy and smooth, the cheddar wasn't just sharp and flavorful. It was heaven melting in our mouths. We all declared Executive Chef Brian Gazda and his team worthy of a fine European restaurant.

A visit to the Simon Pearce restaurant is well worth the drive, but so is browsing the beautiful handblown glassware. Pearce is known around the world for his glassblowing and pottery, trades he learned in Kilkenny, Ireland. The New York Times described him as a "prominent designer of glassware," one whose works have been given as gifts to foreign dignitaries and to presenters at the Academy Awards.

Simon Pearce selections include barware, vases, bowls, platters and cake plates, and that's the short list. If you plan to shop and buy, make sure your checking account is flush. A single wineglass will set you back $70.

The glass is blown by artisans in a studio just below the restaurant. People interested in seeing how it's done are invited to watch as a piece is molded and placed into a blazing furnace. Just outside the glassblowing studio is a patio where you can stand close to the falls and take pictures. 

After brunch, take a short ride to the indoor flea market where you'll find antiques of every kind on several floors. Jewelry, dishware, toys from the 1950s and 1960s and all kinds of collectibles are on display, and everything is for sale. Truly, it's like poking around Grandma's attic.

A little over a half hour away is the Vermont Country Store in Bellows Falls. This emporium also sells items from the past, but unlike the flea market, the items for sale are all new. Think Lifebuoy soap, muumuus and toys and games Baby Boomers played with 50 years ago. These are the things you'll come across on your trip down Memory Lane.

Not ready to go home yet? Then how about heading back toward Quechee and stopping in nearby Woodstock to see if they have any rooms available at the Woodstock Inn and Resort.

Typical of old New England, the elegant Inn is a sprawling white building with black

shutters, and right inside the front door is a massive fireplace with a furniture grouping that invites conversation with your travel companion and fellow travelers. The Inn has a gift shop, and here you'll find genuine maple syrup, a byproduct of Vermont. 

The Inn is an expensive option for lodging —most rooms are well over $300 per night, and one drawback is that the pool and fitness center is only accessible if you're willing to walk two miles, take a free shuttle or drive by car.

But once you're there, it's well worth the visit, as it has a gorgeous pool and whirlpool in a glass-walled structure looking out over the green grounds and beautiful hills. There's also a sauna, steam room and changing area. 

This is a four-season inn just as Vermont is — no matter what season, there's something to do, from swimming to skiing.

Brunch at Simon Pearce is served from 10 a.m to 2:45 p.m. on Sundays; the dinner hour begins at 5. On other days, including Saturday, lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:45 p.m., and the dinner hour begins at 5:30 p.m. and ends at 9 p.m.

For more information at the Woodstock Inn, call toll free 855-421-0178 or 802-232-6853 or visit www.woodstockinn.com.

When in Rome ... or in Tuscany

By GAIL LOWE

Had I not known the two men walking arm in arm 20 feet ahead of me, I might have thought they were a gay couple. But we were in Cecina, Italy, and one of the men was my husband. The other was the husband of a cousin he had not seen in more than 30 years.

The scene ahead of me was sweet and typical of European culture. I now wish I had captured the scene on film, but I was too busy talking to the cousin's wife Graziella as we, too, walked along arm in arm.

We reserved Sunday, March 29, to visit Darwin and Graziella at their condo in Cecina. Tears flooded Graziella's face at the sight of my husband. Over the years, she and Darwin had visited the U.S. just as Tony had visited them, and they knew this might be the last time they would ever see each other. 

They honored our visit the best way Italians know how — with a feast that included champagne and Chianti wine.

We had been looking forward to a week in Tuscany — including the visit with Darwin and Graziella — for the past year after booking a Fly and Drive trip to Tuscany offered by friendlyplanet.com. 

We had first heard about friendlyplanet, an online travel site, from a couple who booked a trip to China with them. Their trip included airfare, hotel, breakfast daily, tour guide and all tips, surcharges and taxes. All of this for well under $2,000 for both of them, or less than $1,000 per person to walk the Great Wall of China and tour Shanghai and Beijing.

When we saw the Tuscany trip for $1,099 per person, which also included airfare, hotel, rental car, breakfast and other charges, we booked right away. But because we decided to go the last week in March when the weather would be a little warmer, the cost was bumped to $1,199. Still, it was a bargain.

Our flight was from JFK in New York to Milan, so we opted to leave our car in a long-term parking lot only a mile from the airport. (The only issue was that our return flight landed at 9:45 p.m., which meant a five-hour drive home to Massachusetts.)

We flew to and from with Emirates, and I must say this airline has it all over the major U.S. airlines, except maybe Jet Blue. Flight attendants were classy, flyers were given hot, wet towels to wash hands and face and two meals were served in-flight. Every seat featured individual screens for movie and TV viewing or for listening to music. Flights to and from Italy were without incident, and we slept as much as possible so we wouldn't be worn out for the drive to our hotel in San Gimignano.

We arrived on time, picked up our Fiat 500 and took the long route along the Italian coast that eventually brought us to Cecina. From there, we turned northeast to get to Hotel Sovestro in San Gimignano. We arrived about an hour later, exhausted and hungry. Fortunately for us, the family-run hotel has its own restaurant, and we feasted on wild boar, an exquisite thick bean soup and wonderful fresh spring spring greens salad. 

Hotel Sovestro is a short walk from San Gimignano, so after a good night's sleep and complimentary breakfast (coffee, assorted cheeses and meats, to-die-for pastries and croissants and juice), we had a look around. The medieval town is walled and features 14 towers and winding, hilly lanes that take visitors past shops where everything from fig cakes to lemon soap and purses to scarves are sold. When in Italy, it's an unspoken requirement that you wear a scarf. Everyone does. 

There are unlimited photo ops in charming San Gimignano. Some lanes lead to the greatest heights where you can view all of Tuscany — acres upon acres of green land sectioned off into vineyards and olive groves. The sun that day was hot, and only then did I understood the significance of Frances Mayes' book title "Under the Tuscan Sun."

We also encountered strolling musicians, including an accordionist who thrilled us with favorite Italian songs.

We made good use of our week, and that included taking the public bus to Florence from Pongibossi, a little town only 20 minutes east of San Gimignano. This proved to be the best option, since parking in Florence is next to impossible. The buses run right on schedule, and the ride was about an hour each way. No sooner did we get off the bus and begin wandering than we found ourselves at the edge of the leather market. It was there that we found a few bargains — spring leather gloves, a leather purse for a family member's birthday and, of course, scarves. We later discovered the purse we bought is similar to a Michael Kors design that sells in the U.S. for $350. 

Weighted down with a few bags did not stop us from walking the distance to Gallery Academia where the original "David" stands in all its royal splendor. We gazed upon this sculpted marble wonder, 14 feet tall, from base to the top of David's head. Beautiful churches housing world-famous art by Michelangelo also beckoned, as did the gelato stands.

Back at the hotel later in the day, we noticed a sign at the front desk announcing a performance of favorite opera arias, so we bought tickets for about $25 U.S. for Saturday night. The drive to and from Siena was under an hour, and parking was a breeze. The performance featured soprano Chiara Panacci and pianist Iliara Posarelli with arias that included those from Turandot, La Boheme, Gianni Schicchi and Madame Butterfly, among others. What could be better than an encore featuring O Sole Mio and Come Back to Sorrento. That's what we got. The venue, Santo Stefano alla Lizza, was an old church whose space was intimate and acoustics good for this wonderful concert. A restaurant called Guido, practically around the corner from the church, was a great place to dine on squash stuffed ravioli and steak.

Our final day was reserved for a long drive through the Chianti region of Tuscany. Again, we encountered those serpentine roads and small villages throughout where you could shop for olive oil, regional art, sticks of salami and, of course, Chianti wine. 

Friendlyplanet.com is currently offering Italy by Rail ($1,649 per person) and Italy Fly and Drive ($1,449). There's also a $3,449 package called Incredible Italy.

If you want to go, sign up soon. Trips close out fast.

Moon over Nova Star

By GAIL LOWE

Cruise lines market their vacations as luxurious escapes from the day-to-day grind, building an itinerary to include all-encompassing packages featuring dining, entertainment, adventure, relaxation, casinos, spa visits and, of course, transportation. 

Some people are on the fence when it comes to deciding on how to spend their hard-earned vacation dollars, vacillating between a land vacation or one that's on the water. 

For the uninitiated, there's now a way to determine whether cruising is for you. Beginning last spring, the Nova Star, a brand new cruise ship that sails daily from Portland, Maine to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia began advertising in the New England area, and perhaps beyond, boasting its many virtues.

We planned a week away to Nova Scotia in mid-September to explore Digby — known as the scallop capital of the world — and the surrounding area. We made reservations for ourselves on the Nova Star, and other than a few glitches that can be easily corrected, it was smooth sailing.

The night of our crossing, Sunday, Sept. 7, a nearly full moon began rising just as the Nova Star was pulling into Portland. The ship's beautiful deep blue and white contours were a startling contrast against the color of the twilight sky. The ship was scheduled to depart at 9 p.m., but we left early because everyone on the manifest had arrived and were aboard by about 8 p.m.

Ticketing was an easy matter with a quick stop at a makeshift kiosk in a small outer dockside building. We learned, however, that though committed to providing $5 million to the cruise line, the city of Portland had yet to make good on its pledge and, in fact, ousted the Nova Star workers from a more state-of-the-art building right on the dock. The workers sit at four or five computers in the much smaller kiosk but do their best to welcome people. First impressions do count, and we were not impressed with the arrangement, but were impressed with the friendly, apologetic service. We remained optimistic that our voyage would be a good one, and it was, overall. (Note: In Nova Scotia, the worker accommodations were far nicer – shame on the state of Maine for not doing their part.)

The overnight sailing calls for a cabin, unless you're willing to simply recline (and presumably sleep) in an airplane-style seat ($25 per person) on one of the upper decks. Our cabin featured an ocean view from a giant-sized porthole, two lower and two upper berths and a generously sized bathroom. There were soaps, shampoo and conditioner, but 110 volt hairdryers were advised against because the ship is wired for 220 volts. There were blow dryers for borrowing, however, at the Guest Services desk. Unlike other cruise ships, the cabins were not laid out in a tricky labyrinth, making them hard to find. All the cabins are on one deck, and signs pointing the way to cabin numbers help with navigation.

There are three restaurants on the Nova Star, all of them sleek and all well-staffed: Currents, an upscale restaurant with a menu and white linens to match; Fathoms, where food is presented buffet style but also with linens and Piper's Pub for grab 'n go food.

Both Currents and Fathoms won rave reviews from us. I made a full meal from the list of appetizers: Ravioli lobster ($16), iceberg wedge ($7) and seafood chowder ($12). All were delicious offerings and tasted freshly made. An order of surf and turf ($42) came with a good-sized piece of tenderloin and tasty shrimp. 

Other entrees on the menu included, but were not limited to, farm-raised chicken, haddock Francese and lobster risotto with a steamed lobster. Side dishes were also available such as whipped mashed potatoes and infused steamed rice. We tried Banana Foster for dessert and declared it delicious. The entire menu was prepared by Jonathan Joseph, chef of the month from Ye Olde Argyler Lodge in Lower Argyle, Nova Scotia. Something to note: On the return visit from Yarmouth, Currents is closed, so if it's upscale dining you're craving make a reservation on the Portland-Yarmouth crossing. 

The fare at Fathoms was excellent, too, and at much lower prices. Expect to find everything from hamburgers and hot dogs to comfort food like macaroni and cheese, pasta and spaghetti sauce, a lovely white fish and everything in between.  

At Piper's Pub, you can order a cup of coffee, soft drink and muffin or sandwich. 

All three eateries offered a wonderful side dish: A view of the open ocean. What's not to like?

Following dinner at Currents, we moved over to Keys Piano Bar, hoping to hear someone tickling the ivories of the ship's beautiful black baby grand Yamaha, performing Broadway or pop music with some classical thrown in. On Nova Star's website, entertainment is all part of the package, so we were disappointed that none existed to or from Nova Scotia other than the approximately 35 slot machines in the casino and a choice of three movies. If gambling isn't to your liking, there's a gift shop where you can buy everything from liquor to children's toys, all tax free.

If shopping isn't on your to-do list, at Guest Services you can borrow one of the dozen or more board games — from Pictionary to Scrabble.

WiFi is also available at $5 per hour, but getting the news back home is iffy. We could not download the Boston Globe's Sunday edition. Also, we were looking forward to watching the New England Patriots play their second game of the season, but cable service did not extend far enough.

Parents of young children will be happy to know there's a tot lot aptly named "Shrimp's Quarters," a mini playground to keep the little ones busy for a while. Non-smokers will also be pleased to learn that a deck at the top of the ship has been designated as the ONLY smoking area on the ship. 

There's also a full day spa onboard, something you might want to consider on the return voyage from Yarmouth. A full body Swedish massage for 50 minutes is $109 or 30 minutes for back, neck and shoulders for $69. Other treatments include facials, reflexology, manicures and pedicures and add-ons like eye revitalization and a detoxifying body treatment. The prices are in line with what you'd pay at a day spa in your town.

Nova Star also features a "movie theater" (there were three choices and times on the return voyage), but the theater is more like a large room set up with seating not especially conducive to sitting for several hours. There was an expectation that the seating would be movie theater style, but the chairs were more like what you might find in a conference room. The room was darkened by closed curtains.

Here's the pricing: Taking a car not longer than 20 feet costs $99 one way. Cabin A with an ocean view is $209 during the summer season (June 12 through Sept. 8) and $159 during the saver season (Oct. 12 and 13), also one way. There's also a shoulder season. Call 866-864-6295 for rates or visit www.novastarcruises.com for more information. This year, the season will end on Monday, Oct. 13. When making a reservation, be prepared to give your full name as it appears on your passport, passport number, date of birth, credit card number and if you're taking a vehicle the registration number. RVs and motorcycles are accepted onboard as are pets. There are two options for your furry friends -- either a kennel or your car.

Added to these charges are port fees ($6 total for a motor vehicle to and from Nova Scotia and $5 per person). 

Kids under 18 travel free of charge. Reminder: Passports are required for entering Canada. 

Also important to note: There's generally a $50 cancellation fee, but if you cancel within 14 days of your crossing the fee jumps to a 50 percent penalty. Within 48 hours of cancellation, the penalty is 100 percent.

A few things Nova Star could do to "tighten the ship": Follow through on entertainment. If marketing materials promise entertainment, there should at least a pianist in Keys. Also, people who do not bring a car aboard ship can park their vehicles in a secure lot ($25 per day), but the lot takes ONLY cash. This should be mentioned somewhere in Nova Star's website.

We also found it strange that a tip was included in the bill for food purchased at Fathoms, the buffet-style restaurant. Why include a tip if you're serving yourself?

In spite of a few shortfalls, there’s beauty to be had sailing on the Nova Star. Fresh and bracing ocean air. Whale, dolphin and swordfish sightings. A canopy of stars (and moon, if you hit it right) overhead. There’s also something special about sailing on a brand-new ship with lots of amenities and the ease of getting to and from Nova Scotia without a lot of driving involved.

Once you're on Nova Scotia’s shores, there's a lot to see and do, beginning with a drive along the Evangeline Trail and ending with a visit to the Balancing Rock Trail on Long Island, a stone's throw from Digby, the scallop capital of the world.

Take the slow road (Rte. 1) from Yarmouth to Digby instead of Highway 101. It'll take a bit longer, but it's worth the time as you travel through small villages that are a throwback to a more gentle time. Along Rte. 1 you'll come to places like Mavillette Beach, a white sand beach for cold water swimming (accent on cold), Belliveau Cove where the stunning architecture of St. Bernard's Church will catch your eye and Metaghan, where all kinds of boats — from draggers to lobster — dock.

The town of Digby has its own virtues – friendly downtown merchants who invite you in to shop their wares, including souvenirs specific to Nova Scotia; restaurants like Shore Line and Captain's Cabin known for their freshly caught seafood and Shore Road, which boasts the Digby Pines Resort & Spa and Admiral Digby Inn and leads directly to Point Prim where a lighthouse that dates back to 1804 stands guard over the Bay of Fundy.

A special side trip not to be missed is a visit to Long Island, just off the Digby coast. The drive to a miniature ferry at East Ferry is a little over half an hour, and the ferry is only big enough to hold about a dozen cars. It travels back and forth to Long Island on the half hour and hour all day long and costs $5.50 round trip to cross Petit Passage. At the ferry departure point, the family-owned Petit Passage Whale Watches takes people out into the bay to view these magnificent mammals. If time permits, buy tickets. The viewing is spectacular from the 45-foot Passage Provider, built in 2004.

Once on Long island, bear left along a road that winds its way to the village of Freeport. It is here that you'll come to a natural wonder called Balancing Rock Trail. There is no charge to walk the one-mile trail through woodlands that eventually brings visitors to a wooden staircase of about 230 steps. Going down is the easy part, and once you arrive at the wooden deck where you can view Balancing Rock up close, you'll say it was worth the trip. Balancing Rock is a "sea stack" that teeters at the edge of the ocean and looks as if it could tumble at any moment. Fishermen over the years have tried to knock it down, without success.

Climbing back up that staircase is a little hard going for the unfit, but if visitors take their time it can be managed.

All that energy spent will make you hungry, so take a drive to the end of the winding road where Lavena’s Catch Café is situated in a two-story bright yellow cottage.

Lavena's has become our all-time favorite restaurant for a lot of reasons. First, on warm summer days, Lavena opens her windows and lets the heavenly ocean breeze flow in. Second, she serves out-of-this world delicious seafood, including halibut, which is hard to find on menus. Third, her waitstaff is not only friendly and gracious, they are willing to share recipes. Our waitress, Monica, gave us a recipe for an egg tart that we'll make next time we have company for dinner. (The recipe is at the end of this review.) Last, we love the quaint decor of Lavena's, which includes an old upright piano that anyone can play. And I did on the night we visited. There was a table of 15 having dinner in addition to us, and they seemed to enjoy the music as much as I enjoyed playing.

One bit of advice: Call Lavena's ahead of time to make sure she'll be open either for lunch or dinner. On slow days, her chef may decide to go home. Lavena's phone number is 902-839-2517.

If you want to venture a little farther north of Digby, the Annapolis Valley is a beautiful drive and can be done in one day. Stop at the hydro plant in Annapolis to see this engineering marvel. A guide will explain all the inner workings and the views from the upper floors are lovely. A stop at the Annapolis Valley McDonald Museum is also worth the time. Here you'll find a collection of old clocks, pocket watches and during our visit a room was filled with vintage clothing, including a prom gown from the 1960s and a fur hat that, believe it or not, resembled the fur of our cat Stella. 

Continue on to Middleton and stop to see Terry Hyson at the Memory Lane Railway Museum. He’ll tell you all about the history of railroads in Nova Scotia, including the Apple Blossom Special and Dominion Atlantic Railway. There are plenty of artifacts to look at, and Terry will be happy to explain it all. On leaving the museum, Terry gave us a wave and said, "Next time, bring a busload."

I’ve only scratched the surface of things to do and see in Nova Scotia. It’s a place that begs to be explored again and again. Next time, we’ll go even farther north – maybe all the way to the Cabot Trail.  

EGG TARTS
3 eggs beaten
1 1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla
3 T vinegar
Beat together until sugar is dissolved. Bake in pastry shells at 350 degrees for about 15-20 minutes or until golden. Monica sends her greetings -- bon appetite!

 

Poland Spring Resort, Maine

Most Baby Boomers close to retirement (or already retired) have to watch their pennies, so before booking an overnight stay, weekend getaway or week-long (or longer) trip, we need to take everything into consideration -- mode of travel, lodging, meals and entrance fees into museums, national parks and other attractions. We like to be "on the go" but not see our "money go out the window" on needless travel expenses.

A month or so before the Fourth of July, our friends Dick and Andrea suggested a holiday weekend away. We live in the Boston area, so we all donned our thinking caps. Someone suggested Tanglewood in Lenox. Someone else suggested Bar Harbor in Maine or North Conway in New Hampshire. All excellent ideas. Then I thought about Poland Spring Resort in Poland, Maine. People in our circle had been there recently and raved about their experience. And I had visited and written about the Inn in the early 2000s when I headed up my own travel writing business (WordPower). At the time, Cyndi and Mel Robbins owned and operated the resort. Since then, Mel has passed away, but Cyndi continues to work hard to keep her guests happy.

"How about a weekend at an Inn that's as American as apple pie?" I suggested. I knew that a two-night stay at Poland Spring Resort would be within everyone's budget and that the stay included meals. Everyone was in agreement, so I called the Resort to find out if they had rooms available over the Fourth and other particulars. 

The friendly receptionist said that two queen-sized rooms were available in the Presidential Inn, which is set apart from the Maine Inn where the dining room and lobby are located. Yes, meals were included in the price. Yes, there was entertainment on Saturday night -- plus fireworks, she said. Oh, and by the way, there's a new casino a few miles down the road if you get bored at the Resort. Little chance of that happening, though -- the Resort sits on 300 acres of pretty, well-manicured grounds with a view of the White Mountains in the distance. There's a bocce court, shuffleboard, Ping-Pong table, small library, 18-hole Donald Ross golf course and Wimbledon style tennis courts and wide veranda at the Maine Inn complete with white wooden rockers. Little chance for boredom to set in here. If you're looking for a place to hold a wedding that won't bankrupt you, look into Poland Spring Resort. Their price, including food, is about $8,000.

Our cost for two nights plus four meals: $215.88 for BOTH of us. This is NOT a typo. The Resort added on an extra $10 for the keys, just in case one (or both) went missing. The $10 was refunded when we turned in our keys at check-out. 

When I heard this, I hung up and dialed our friends. Their response: Let's go!

Check-in time at Poland Spring Resort is 4 p.m., so on the morning of the Fourth of July we drove to Freeport, Maine, which is only a half hour from Poland, to do some shopping and have some lunch. Freeport is right on the ocean and home to L.L. Bean, my all-time favorite shopping haunt. There are also outlets in Freeport, so we stopped at a few along the way before having lunch at Tuscan Brick Oven Bistro on Main Street. The sandwiches we ordered were excellent (I can vouch for the eggplant parm) and big enough for two meals. I took half of mine with me. (One of our room's amenities was a small refrigerator.)

We arrived at the Resort about an hour before dinner. Check-in was quick, friendly and efficient. There's a gift shop right there where you can buy T-shirts, floppy hats, Maine culinary delights, souvenirs and other items.

The Presidential Inn has three floors (no elevator), and our two rooms were on the first floor. (Note to pet owners: The Resort has set aside several pet-friendly rooms at an additional cost. Call ahead for rates.) Each room is named either for a President or First Lady. We occupied the Edith Roosevelt Room and George W. Bush Room. Both rooms were neat and clean and came with ceiling fans in addition to air conditioning units. There was also a small TV set. Bring your cell phone if you need to make calls, as there are none in the rooms. The mattress was firm, the pillows comfortable. The bathroom was outfitted with soap, towels, wash cloths and bath mat but did not feature a blow dryer or shampoo. Those you bring from home.

After settling in, we drove to the Maine Inn for a drink in a bar off the lobby. While my husband, Andrea and Dick enjoyed their glasses of wine, I played piano in the lobby. It's there for anyone to play and since I brought my own sheet music from home, I figured "why not?" People in the lobby enjoyed the music, and I got to practice.

The dining room opened promptly at 6 p.m. and we were assigned a table for four. Dining is cafeteria style, but I noticed young college-age people on hand to help. They flitted around, wiping up spills, serving food and making sure nothing in any of the serving dishes had run out. Plates are stacked at one end of the display of food, and as you move along you can pick and choose what you'd like to eat. Friday night's entrée was baked haddock with lobster sauce, which proved to be yummy and fresh. Accompanying the haddock: Rice, carrots, peas, string beans and fresh bread and butter. For those who don't like fish, there was a roast beef dish with gravy. For dessert, there were five choices: Cake, pie, cookies and brownies, bread pudding and lime and strawberry Jell-O. You can pour your own lemonade, soda, water or bring your wine to the table from the bar.

Following dinner, we visited the casino and I must say we had some fun playing the slots and watching the Craps games in progress. Our friends won $150, which nearly covered the cost of their trip. The casino is large enough without being overwhelming and non-smokers will love that there is absolutely no smoking allowed inside.

Breakfast the following morning consisted of broccoli and cheese quiche, sausage links, toast or English muffins, fresh fruit, mini muffins and raspberry sticks. And of course, juice and coffee. No need for tipping, by the way, because we served ourselves.

Saturday during the day we took a ride to Rumford where Native Son Edmund Muskie grew up. The Androscoggin River runs through the town and there are several sets of waterfalls to gaze at. There's also an ice cream stand nearby where you can get a double scoop of hard ice cream for under $3. Back in Massachusetts that cone would set you back double the amount.

Back at the Resort for dinner, we were overjoyed to find turkey and all the fixin's on the menu. Or, if that didn't suit the palate, garlic pasta was the alternate. Turkey came with real mashed potatoes, butternut squash, cranberry sauce, stuffing, gravy and corn bread. We gave the dinner a solid 5 stars.  

We knew that a band called The Bushwhackers (R&B, jazz and rock and roll musicians) were scheduled to play in the bandstand on the green, so we set up our chairs near enough to hear their great music and far enough away to view the fireworks from a safe distance. They went off as soon as it got dark. The display was not rinky-dink. I didn't count, but my guess was that 100 beautiful and colorful fireworks filled the sky that night.

The following morning we enjoyed another hearty breakfast, this time French toast and REAL maple syrup, sausage links, the little mini-muffins and other pastries and coffee and juice.

Would we book again at Poland Spring Resort? Absolutely. We recommend that you do, too. Though the Inns are closed during the winter, The Lodge and 10 cottages remain open for people who enjoy skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing and sledding. We think it would make a perfect weekend getaway — maybe over Valentine's Day.

Address: 543 Maine Street, Poland, Maine.

For more information call 207-998-4351. Or visit www.polandspringinns.com.