Moon over Nova Star

By GAIL LOWE

Cruise lines market their vacations as luxurious escapes from the day-to-day grind, building an itinerary to include all-encompassing packages featuring dining, entertainment, adventure, relaxation, casinos, spa visits and, of course, transportation. 

Some people are on the fence when it comes to deciding on how to spend their hard-earned vacation dollars, vacillating between a land vacation or one that's on the water. 

For the uninitiated, there's now a way to determine whether cruising is for you. Beginning last spring, the Nova Star, a brand new cruise ship that sails daily from Portland, Maine to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia began advertising in the New England area, and perhaps beyond, boasting its many virtues.

We planned a week away to Nova Scotia in mid-September to explore Digby — known as the scallop capital of the world — and the surrounding area. We made reservations for ourselves on the Nova Star, and other than a few glitches that can be easily corrected, it was smooth sailing.

The night of our crossing, Sunday, Sept. 7, a nearly full moon began rising just as the Nova Star was pulling into Portland. The ship's beautiful deep blue and white contours were a startling contrast against the color of the twilight sky. The ship was scheduled to depart at 9 p.m., but we left early because everyone on the manifest had arrived and were aboard by about 8 p.m.

Ticketing was an easy matter with a quick stop at a makeshift kiosk in a small outer dockside building. We learned, however, that though committed to providing $5 million to the cruise line, the city of Portland had yet to make good on its pledge and, in fact, ousted the Nova Star workers from a more state-of-the-art building right on the dock. The workers sit at four or five computers in the much smaller kiosk but do their best to welcome people. First impressions do count, and we were not impressed with the arrangement, but were impressed with the friendly, apologetic service. We remained optimistic that our voyage would be a good one, and it was, overall. (Note: In Nova Scotia, the worker accommodations were far nicer – shame on the state of Maine for not doing their part.)

The overnight sailing calls for a cabin, unless you're willing to simply recline (and presumably sleep) in an airplane-style seat ($25 per person) on one of the upper decks. Our cabin featured an ocean view from a giant-sized porthole, two lower and two upper berths and a generously sized bathroom. There were soaps, shampoo and conditioner, but 110 volt hairdryers were advised against because the ship is wired for 220 volts. There were blow dryers for borrowing, however, at the Guest Services desk. Unlike other cruise ships, the cabins were not laid out in a tricky labyrinth, making them hard to find. All the cabins are on one deck, and signs pointing the way to cabin numbers help with navigation.

There are three restaurants on the Nova Star, all of them sleek and all well-staffed: Currents, an upscale restaurant with a menu and white linens to match; Fathoms, where food is presented buffet style but also with linens and Piper's Pub for grab 'n go food.

Both Currents and Fathoms won rave reviews from us. I made a full meal from the list of appetizers: Ravioli lobster ($16), iceberg wedge ($7) and seafood chowder ($12). All were delicious offerings and tasted freshly made. An order of surf and turf ($42) came with a good-sized piece of tenderloin and tasty shrimp. 

Other entrees on the menu included, but were not limited to, farm-raised chicken, haddock Francese and lobster risotto with a steamed lobster. Side dishes were also available such as whipped mashed potatoes and infused steamed rice. We tried Banana Foster for dessert and declared it delicious. The entire menu was prepared by Jonathan Joseph, chef of the month from Ye Olde Argyler Lodge in Lower Argyle, Nova Scotia. Something to note: On the return visit from Yarmouth, Currents is closed, so if it's upscale dining you're craving make a reservation on the Portland-Yarmouth crossing. 

The fare at Fathoms was excellent, too, and at much lower prices. Expect to find everything from hamburgers and hot dogs to comfort food like macaroni and cheese, pasta and spaghetti sauce, a lovely white fish and everything in between.  

At Piper's Pub, you can order a cup of coffee, soft drink and muffin or sandwich. 

All three eateries offered a wonderful side dish: A view of the open ocean. What's not to like?

Following dinner at Currents, we moved over to Keys Piano Bar, hoping to hear someone tickling the ivories of the ship's beautiful black baby grand Yamaha, performing Broadway or pop music with some classical thrown in. On Nova Star's website, entertainment is all part of the package, so we were disappointed that none existed to or from Nova Scotia other than the approximately 35 slot machines in the casino and a choice of three movies. If gambling isn't to your liking, there's a gift shop where you can buy everything from liquor to children's toys, all tax free.

If shopping isn't on your to-do list, at Guest Services you can borrow one of the dozen or more board games — from Pictionary to Scrabble.

WiFi is also available at $5 per hour, but getting the news back home is iffy. We could not download the Boston Globe's Sunday edition. Also, we were looking forward to watching the New England Patriots play their second game of the season, but cable service did not extend far enough.

Parents of young children will be happy to know there's a tot lot aptly named "Shrimp's Quarters," a mini playground to keep the little ones busy for a while. Non-smokers will also be pleased to learn that a deck at the top of the ship has been designated as the ONLY smoking area on the ship. 

There's also a full day spa onboard, something you might want to consider on the return voyage from Yarmouth. A full body Swedish massage for 50 minutes is $109 or 30 minutes for back, neck and shoulders for $69. Other treatments include facials, reflexology, manicures and pedicures and add-ons like eye revitalization and a detoxifying body treatment. The prices are in line with what you'd pay at a day spa in your town.

Nova Star also features a "movie theater" (there were three choices and times on the return voyage), but the theater is more like a large room set up with seating not especially conducive to sitting for several hours. There was an expectation that the seating would be movie theater style, but the chairs were more like what you might find in a conference room. The room was darkened by closed curtains.

Here's the pricing: Taking a car not longer than 20 feet costs $99 one way. Cabin A with an ocean view is $209 during the summer season (June 12 through Sept. 8) and $159 during the saver season (Oct. 12 and 13), also one way. There's also a shoulder season. Call 866-864-6295 for rates or visit www.novastarcruises.com for more information. This year, the season will end on Monday, Oct. 13. When making a reservation, be prepared to give your full name as it appears on your passport, passport number, date of birth, credit card number and if you're taking a vehicle the registration number. RVs and motorcycles are accepted onboard as are pets. There are two options for your furry friends -- either a kennel or your car.

Added to these charges are port fees ($6 total for a motor vehicle to and from Nova Scotia and $5 per person). 

Kids under 18 travel free of charge. Reminder: Passports are required for entering Canada. 

Also important to note: There's generally a $50 cancellation fee, but if you cancel within 14 days of your crossing the fee jumps to a 50 percent penalty. Within 48 hours of cancellation, the penalty is 100 percent.

A few things Nova Star could do to "tighten the ship": Follow through on entertainment. If marketing materials promise entertainment, there should at least a pianist in Keys. Also, people who do not bring a car aboard ship can park their vehicles in a secure lot ($25 per day), but the lot takes ONLY cash. This should be mentioned somewhere in Nova Star's website.

We also found it strange that a tip was included in the bill for food purchased at Fathoms, the buffet-style restaurant. Why include a tip if you're serving yourself?

In spite of a few shortfalls, there’s beauty to be had sailing on the Nova Star. Fresh and bracing ocean air. Whale, dolphin and swordfish sightings. A canopy of stars (and moon, if you hit it right) overhead. There’s also something special about sailing on a brand-new ship with lots of amenities and the ease of getting to and from Nova Scotia without a lot of driving involved.

Once you're on Nova Scotia’s shores, there's a lot to see and do, beginning with a drive along the Evangeline Trail and ending with a visit to the Balancing Rock Trail on Long Island, a stone's throw from Digby, the scallop capital of the world.

Take the slow road (Rte. 1) from Yarmouth to Digby instead of Highway 101. It'll take a bit longer, but it's worth the time as you travel through small villages that are a throwback to a more gentle time. Along Rte. 1 you'll come to places like Mavillette Beach, a white sand beach for cold water swimming (accent on cold), Belliveau Cove where the stunning architecture of St. Bernard's Church will catch your eye and Metaghan, where all kinds of boats — from draggers to lobster — dock.

The town of Digby has its own virtues – friendly downtown merchants who invite you in to shop their wares, including souvenirs specific to Nova Scotia; restaurants like Shore Line and Captain's Cabin known for their freshly caught seafood and Shore Road, which boasts the Digby Pines Resort & Spa and Admiral Digby Inn and leads directly to Point Prim where a lighthouse that dates back to 1804 stands guard over the Bay of Fundy.

A special side trip not to be missed is a visit to Long Island, just off the Digby coast. The drive to a miniature ferry at East Ferry is a little over half an hour, and the ferry is only big enough to hold about a dozen cars. It travels back and forth to Long Island on the half hour and hour all day long and costs $5.50 round trip to cross Petit Passage. At the ferry departure point, the family-owned Petit Passage Whale Watches takes people out into the bay to view these magnificent mammals. If time permits, buy tickets. The viewing is spectacular from the 45-foot Passage Provider, built in 2004.

Once on Long island, bear left along a road that winds its way to the village of Freeport. It is here that you'll come to a natural wonder called Balancing Rock Trail. There is no charge to walk the one-mile trail through woodlands that eventually brings visitors to a wooden staircase of about 230 steps. Going down is the easy part, and once you arrive at the wooden deck where you can view Balancing Rock up close, you'll say it was worth the trip. Balancing Rock is a "sea stack" that teeters at the edge of the ocean and looks as if it could tumble at any moment. Fishermen over the years have tried to knock it down, without success.

Climbing back up that staircase is a little hard going for the unfit, but if visitors take their time it can be managed.

All that energy spent will make you hungry, so take a drive to the end of the winding road where Lavena’s Catch Café is situated in a two-story bright yellow cottage.

Lavena's has become our all-time favorite restaurant for a lot of reasons. First, on warm summer days, Lavena opens her windows and lets the heavenly ocean breeze flow in. Second, she serves out-of-this world delicious seafood, including halibut, which is hard to find on menus. Third, her waitstaff is not only friendly and gracious, they are willing to share recipes. Our waitress, Monica, gave us a recipe for an egg tart that we'll make next time we have company for dinner. (The recipe is at the end of this review.) Last, we love the quaint decor of Lavena's, which includes an old upright piano that anyone can play. And I did on the night we visited. There was a table of 15 having dinner in addition to us, and they seemed to enjoy the music as much as I enjoyed playing.

One bit of advice: Call Lavena's ahead of time to make sure she'll be open either for lunch or dinner. On slow days, her chef may decide to go home. Lavena's phone number is 902-839-2517.

If you want to venture a little farther north of Digby, the Annapolis Valley is a beautiful drive and can be done in one day. Stop at the hydro plant in Annapolis to see this engineering marvel. A guide will explain all the inner workings and the views from the upper floors are lovely. A stop at the Annapolis Valley McDonald Museum is also worth the time. Here you'll find a collection of old clocks, pocket watches and during our visit a room was filled with vintage clothing, including a prom gown from the 1960s and a fur hat that, believe it or not, resembled the fur of our cat Stella. 

Continue on to Middleton and stop to see Terry Hyson at the Memory Lane Railway Museum. He’ll tell you all about the history of railroads in Nova Scotia, including the Apple Blossom Special and Dominion Atlantic Railway. There are plenty of artifacts to look at, and Terry will be happy to explain it all. On leaving the museum, Terry gave us a wave and said, "Next time, bring a busload."

I’ve only scratched the surface of things to do and see in Nova Scotia. It’s a place that begs to be explored again and again. Next time, we’ll go even farther north – maybe all the way to the Cabot Trail.  

EGG TARTS
3 eggs beaten
1 1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla
3 T vinegar
Beat together until sugar is dissolved. Bake in pastry shells at 350 degrees for about 15-20 minutes or until golden. Monica sends her greetings -- bon appetite!