Celebrating biodiversity in Costa Rica

By GAIL LOWE

ARENAL, COSTA RICA — At any moment, a provoked crocodile could have attacked the rubber raft we paddled along the Penas Blanca River in the middle of a rain forest only 30 minutes from La Fortuna, a town next to Costa Rica's Arenal volcano.

Arenal Volcano as seen from the grounds of Hotel Lomas Del Vol 

Fortunately for us, the crocodiles apparently had already had lunch. But others have not been as fortunate. There have been reports of sawed off legs, arms and heads. While on our river safari, our guide told us that in one case a crocodile was euthanized and in its gut a man’s entire remains were found. What a gruesome image!

We were taken through a region where howler monkeys swung through the trees, sloths peacefully napped in thick vegetation, venomous snakes slithered along the embankments and toucans flitted across the water. Now and then, we’d spot a neon green lizard sunning itself on a rock. This, we agreed, was the forest primeval.

Our guide used a laser pointer to bring these creatures to our attention as we glided along. “We” included my husband and I and a mother and son from New Jersey sharing space in the little raft.

Costa Rica — the rich coast — is known for its biodiversity and natural resources. Because of the country’s geographical placement near the equator, it is blessed with numerous species of birds, wildlife, flowers, spices, hot springs and majestic beauty. Along the east coast, there is the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea. On the west coast, there is the Pacific. Both coasts are lined with beautiful beaches.

Our first night of a seven-night adventure in the spring of 2017 was spent in San Jose, Costa Rica’s capital. Hotel Balmoral was smack in the middle of downtown and an easy walk to restaurants, shops and museums. The inner city reminded us of Downtown Crossing in Boston where only foot traffic is allowed. We found it safe for an early evening stroll to a restaurant, and no one pushed us to buy souvenirs or other wares. The hotel itself was clean and adequate for our needs, which is to say we needed a place to sleep. The bed, however, was rock hard and so were the pillows. Hotel management: Please do something about this if you want more positive reviews. To make up for it, the room rate included a full breakfast, and we filled up with coffee, juice, fresh fruit, toast, egg dishes and various meats before setting off for Arenal in our all-wheel drive rented Jimmy Suzuki.

The two hours to La Fortuna (Arenal) might have frightened some—we had been warned that there are no guard rails—but we braved the switchback roads with ease and found that there were indeed guard rails to protect drivers. We arrived in La Fortuna a few hours later and after driving through the small Latino town we found our lodging for the next two nights. Hotel Lomas Del Volcan, a quasi gated community, was built on a long incline to the base of the Arenal volcano, which is covered in thick green vegetation. At first sight, it just about takes your breath away, it’s so majestic. White smoke curled out of the volcano’s cauldron, and yes it remains active to this day. At night, there is viewing from the Arenal Observatory Lodge, only a short drive from the hotel.

We loved this area, including the hotel, for a lot of reasons and would highly recommend it to anyone. First, every guest is given a detached wood-frame bungalow for the duration of their stay and breakfast is included if you book through a tour operator like Gate1travel.com. Some bungalows feature a bedroom, bathroom and front and rear porches for relaxing. Other bungalows are big enough to accommodate large families and come with sitting rooms in addition to bedrooms and bath. The grounds are immaculate and are a profusion of lovely plants and flowers. Since just the two of us were traveling, we stayed in a smaller bungalow, but our every need was met, from shampoo, soap and blow dryer to a fully stocked mini refrigerator. I’m happy, also, to report that the beds were far nicer than what Hotel Balmoral offered.

Management at this hotel was friendly, warm and welcoming. People manning the front desk helped us select the best tour options suitable for us. Instead of zip-lining through the jungle, we opted instead for a river safari through a rain forest, which included a stop at an authentic Costa Rican farmhouse owned by two elderly women. While there, we sampled food grown on their farmland. Following a short rest, we climbed down the embankment and hopped aboard our rubber raft, picked up our paddles and went on our way.

There were a number of hot springs near our hotel, including one inside a resort called Baldi Hot Springs Hotel and Spa. Though the springs are not in a natural setting, the grounds are inspiring, beautiful and well worth visiting.

Overlooking the Pacific Ocean from Si Como No Hotel

Our Costa Rican adventure allowed only two days in the Arenal area, so we also chose to walk two miles on a narrow dirt path to the anterior side of the volcano, also the site of a small lava field. Entering the 

  

walkway cost $15 per person. It is here that the Kodak blue Arenal Lake can be viewed from a distance. The pathway was narrow and a bit tight, as many other tourists wanted to see the volcano close up. This walk is for people who are fit and active, as the path is on a slight incline and rocky in some places.  Along the way, we found fascinating natural formations. For instance, a tree grew in such a way that it took on the appearance of a giraffe. We also came across a beehive and an army of fire ants, which we stayed clear of. A better

Tree along Arenal pathway looks like a giraffe

choice might have been a drive to Arenal Observatory Lodge where, at night, you can view the volcano in spectacular color.

After checking out following a two-night stay in Arenal, we drove another three hours to Manuel Antonio on the southern Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. Our hotel, Si Como No (translated “Yes, of course!”) was built into the side of a mountain overlooking the Pacific. Each room boasted a commanding ocean view and private patio for viewing wildlife, including howler monkeys that would awaken us in the morning with their loud grunts.

If you book at Si Como No, know ahead of time that room access might be difficult. For instance, to access room 19, which was our first assignment, we had to walk down 48 stairs, which meant another 48 steps to get back up to street level. For those who aren’t quite fit or suffer any kind of physical ailment (such as arthritic knees), this could present a problem. The staff at reception is more than accommodating, however, so not to worry. If you’re not satisfied with your room assignment, ask for another. They’re all lovely, quiet and clean, by the way, and well equipped with everything you might need. The beach at Si Como No also does not have easy access but can be reached by a hotel shuttle bus that runs on the hour.

Our stay at Si Como No also included breakfast at an outdoor restaurant and an adults-only pool that we appreciated for relaxing. Tours in this area also include zip-lining and other adventure activities, but we decided to skip the adventure, including a visit to Manuel Antonio National Park which, we were told by other tourists, was like a bad day at the zoo — overcrowded with people and overrun by animals.

Instead, we opted for a catamaran cruise and visit to a spice farm about a half hour’s drive from our hotel. The catamaran cruise took place during the afternoon and lasted three hours. A newlywed couple and their wedding guests were aboard, and when we stopped for snorkeling many went to the top deck and jumped into the warm water for swimming and snorkeling. While cruising along the coastline, dinner was being prepared — delicious fish, macaroni salad, vegetables and alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. The afternoon turned out to be a festive, fun experience.

The spice farm visit was also held during the afternoon and proved to be a bit uncomfortable due to the humidity, as the farm is inland. Our guide, however, was knowledgeable and taught us about vanilla and chocolate making, and demonstrated how cinnamon is shaved from the branch of a tree. At the end of the tour, we were treated to a half dozen delicacies made with vanilla and chocolate and bought a bottle of vanilla and white and dark chocolate beans, plus cinnamon, to use at home.

 

Dinner  was served in the shape of a volcano.

There’s no shortage of good restaurants in every region of Costa Rica. We expected the cuisine to resemble Mexican food, either hot and spicy or mild. But Costa Rican food, we discovered, is quite bland in comparison. This doesn’t mean that it lacked flavor. Anything but. What we were served was fresh and every bit organic.

Costa Rica had been on our bucket list for quite some time, and we’re both glad we chose this destination for our annual winter trip. If we return, we’ll look for a package deal that focuses on

Liberia in Guanacaste. We’re told the beaches there are absolutely gorgeous.

Visit www.gate1travel.com to view tours.